The Really Useful Cookbook

Some cooks have a fear of making pastry; others say they can't bake a cake. When I was learning to cook, my secret food fear was cooking rice. Not your fancy risotto or paella (they always made sense to me) - no, it was basic steamed rice that I went out of my way to avoid. Such a simple thing, but to me, the potential for error was huge. Eventually, I overcame the fear and taught myself to cook fluffy, ungluggy rice. It was so incredibly rewarding to master a new technique that I looked back and wondered what all the fuss had been about. The point is, sometimes it is great to be taken out of your comfort zone.

I have always had an avid interest in food, and because of this passion I taught myself to cook from books and magazines. I started by finding a good, simple recipe by a trusted writer (Anna del Conte for risotto or Margaret Fulton for baking) and followed their instructions to the letter. After practising it a few times and trying it out on friends (always good for the confidence), I began to vary the recipe and play with the flavours. Essentially, I started to cook more instinctively, often to the point of not following a recipe at all.

With The Really Useful Cookbook, I have attempted to write a cookbook that follows my own experience. It is full of great basic recipes that work every time (I have tested them all at least twice), with lots of really useful tips and tricks that I have learned along the way. My aim is to hold your hand and help take the guesswork out of cooking, giving you a new confidence in the kitchen. But this is more than a book for beginners; this is a book for anyone interested in cooking delicious food. The basic recipes are followed by lots of variations and new ideas to encourage you to branch out and experiment. All you need is here: from my granny's golden syrup pudding to perfect steamed rice, from pistachio and white chocolate friands to prawn fattouche. Face those cooking fears, try some new recipes and have fun!

Pot-roast lamb with gremolata

This is comfort food with attitude - the chilli adds a little spice and the gremolata freshens the taste.

Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 4¼ hours
Serves 4-6

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
150 g pancetta, diced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 brown onion, finely sliced
3 sticks celery, sliced
1 boned and rolled shoulder of lamb
400 g tin chopped Italian tomatoes
125 ml red wine
250 ml beef or chicken stock
1 large red chilli, whole
2 sprigs rosemary
400 g tin cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Gremolata
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon finely chopped mint
finely grated zest of 1 lemon

1. Preheat the oven to 160°C (Gas Mark 2-3).
2. Heat the oil in the large flameproof casserole dish over medium heat and cook the pancetta, garlic, onion and celery, stirring occasionally, for 6-7 minutes or until tender but not coloured.
3. Add the lamb, then stir in the chopped tomatoes, wine and stock. Bring to the boil, then tuck the chilli and rosemary sprigs into the pot. Cover and cook in the oven for about 4 hours, checking occasionally to make sure there is enough liquid in the casserole. Remove the lid and increase the temperature to 180°C (Gas Mark 4) for the last 20 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, to make the gremolata, combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. 5. Transfer the lamb to a warm plate and cover with foil. Skim off any fat from the sauce. Add the cannellini beans to the sauce, adding a little extra stock or water if it is dry. Stir over low heat until warmed through, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Cut the lamb in thick slices and serve with the sauce. Sprinkle with the gremolata just before serving.

Really Useful Stuff
The Italians often freshen up the taste and appearance of slow-cooked meat dishes with a sprinkling of gremolata - a feisty combination of parsley, lemon and garlic. I use it often, and with the addition of a little chopped mint, it is the perfect way to season pot-roasted lamb. Comfort food with attitude!