Your Ticket to New Zealand xi
Section 1 The Far End of the Earth 1
1 Travel without Reservations 5
2 Across the Ocean from the South Pole 6
Section 2 The South Island 13
3 The Wrong Side of the Road 15
4 Penguins, Pints and Pioneers 19
5 A Hot Tub for Sea Lions 23
6 Stern Scotch Presbyterians 26
7 Ski Trails above the Clouds 30
8 Extreme Sports 33
9 Skid and Tow 37
10 Paddling under the Glaciers 40
11 Crampons and Crevasses 43
12 Across the Southern Alps 48
13 Heli-skiing? Heli-no! 54
14 Mountain Rescue 61
15 The Country of Second Sons 65
16 A Flying Shepherd 70
17 Poverty, Chastity, and Obedience 77
18 Bad Girls' Guide to Wine 80
19 Meeting Captain Cook 83
20 Above Murderers' Bay 90
21 The Emperor of New Zealand 95
22 The Cat across Cook Strait 99
23 Once-in-2,000-Years Earthquake 104
24 Sherry with a Painter 110
Section 3 Australia 115
25 Swim in an Anti-Shark Cage 117
26 Parfume Downwind 122
27 An Esky Party 123
28 The Stolen Generation 125
29 Directions for a Hanging 127
30 I'll be Buggered 129
31 The Best Brains of All Fish 130
Section 4 The North Island 135
32 Prawn Sambal from KL 137
33 81 Sheep an Hour 139
34 Biblical High Tech 143
35 The Maori and the Mongrel Mob 148
36 A Knife for a Captain Cooker 154
37 The Rules for Whale Encounters 161
38 Fight or Be Cooked 168
39 Between the Dolphins and the Gannets 175
40 Thrown Out for Misconduct 182
41 A Blue Electric Charge 187
42 A Farmer and a Scholar 194
43 Where the Queen of England Goes to Fish 200
44 The Polynesian Spa 206
45 How to Catch a Barracuda 210
46 Stud Lambs Get Crotchety 215
47 The City of Sails 224
48 A Stack of Sheepskins 226
49 A Tunnel through a Fishtank 230
Section 5 Cook Islands / Goodbye New Zealand 235
50 Writing in Rarotonga 239
51 Goodbye New Zealand 248
Section 6 The Practical Traveler 251
Favorite Places 255
Favorite Guides 259
Background Reading 261
Practical Books and Web Sites 263
Bring with You 265
Flying in the Front of the Plane 267
Overcoming Jet Lag 271
Recipes 273
Acknowledgments 275
