Queering Masculinities in Antwerp Fashion

List of figures
Acknowledgements

Introduction
a. An interdisciplinary lens on fashion and masculinities
b. On the meanings of queering
c. Case studies
d. Avant-garde fashion and critical fashion practices
e. Book architecture
f. Methodological reflections

1. The Antwerp Fashion Scene: History, Pedagogy, and Avant-Garde Fashion Practices
a. The changing geographies of fashion cities: The case of Antwerp
b. The evolution of Belgian fashion and the rise of the Antwerp fashion scene
c. The role of the fashion department at the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts
d. Situating gender and sexuality in the discourses on Antwerp fashion

Part One: Queering Menswear

2. Stitching and Unstitching the Norm: Understanding Normative and Queer Masculinities in Dress and Fashion
a. Aristocratic fashion and conspicuous masculinity
b. The modern masculine stereotype: Retracing the roots of normative masculinity
c. What have men renounced? Masculinity, the suit, and the ground zero of menswear
d. The anti-feminine performativity of the dressed male body
e. Hybrid masculinities in fashion: From orthodox revivals to genderfluid fashion

3. Queering Menswear in Antwerp Fashion
a. Queer(ing) tailoring: Walter Van Beirendonck
b. Menswear in the interzone: Raf Simons
c. Designing in the gender spectrum: Glenn Martens

Part Two: Queering the Body

4. What Are You Looking At? Menâs Bodies, the Gaze, and Masculinity as an Embodied Practice
a. A non-foundational approach to menâs bodies
b. The male gaze and the disembodied modern male body
c. Intervisuality, homoeroticism, and the instabilities of the male gaze
d. Consumer culture, advertising images, and fashion photography
e. Challenging the hegemonic male physique: Non-conforming embodiments and representations

5. Queering the Body in Antwerp Fashion
a. The muscular and athletic body through the ambiguous gaze: Dirk Bikkembergs
b. The male body in the interzone: Raf Simonsâs skinny silhouette
c. Stocky, heavy, and bearded: Walter Van Beirendonckâs bear physique

Part Three: Queering Sexuality

6. Enclothed Sexuality: the Dressed Male Body at the Intersection of Heteronormativity and Queer Critical Discourses
a. Sexuality as a modern dispositive of power
b. Who is afraid of sex? Rethinking sexuality through queer theories
c. Dressing heteronormativity, queer sexualities, and desire

7. Queering Sexuality in Antwerp Fashion
a. âDesigning with a hard-onâ: Bernhard Willhelm
b. âThereâs sex in everything I do!â: Walter Van Beirendonck, fetishism, and BDSM
c. For Sucsexful Living: Glenn Martensâs sex-positive ethos

Conclusion

Notes
References
Index