Table of Contents
Introduction 9
Abbreviations, Terminology, & Tools Needed 11
Abbreviations & Terminology List 12
Abbreviations & Terminology - Body 14
Abbreviations & Terminology - Pattern 15
Terminology: What's a Dragline? What's a Bubble? 18
Terminology: Slash & Spread vs. Slash & Close 19
Tools & Supplies 20
The Customization Process in Patternmaking 21
What Does the Patternmaking Process Look Like? 22
The Customization Scale in Patternmaking 23
Make a Moulage 24
The Initial Fitting Stage - the Moulage 25
Make a Sloper 26
The Initial Fitting Stage - the Sloper 27
Create Style Patterns 28
The Design Fitting Stage 29
Alter the Style Pattern 30
Make the Final Garment 31
Make the Final Fitting Adjustments 32
Love & Wear Your Garments 33
Factors in Fitting 35
Why Body Size Charts Vary 36
Sizing, Ease, and Fabric 37
The Importance of a Fitting Sample 38
Woven Fabric Selection 39
Knit Fabric Selection or Wovens with Stretch 40
Darts Explained 41
Tips for Getting Started 43
Seam Allowances 44
Measuring Seam Lines 45
Sleeve Ease Amounts 47
How To Measure Yourself 48
The Tape & Pin Method in Fitting 49
Using Patternmaking Rulers 51
True the Seams 53, 56, & 58
Checking the Balance of Top or Bodice Patterns 61
A Balanced Jacket or Coat Pattern 62
A Balanced Knit and Woven Top Pattern 64
First Steps in Assessing the Fit 67
Checking the Seam and Circumference Positions 68
Look for Horizontal Draglines 70
Neckline Corrections 71
Front Neck Gaping 72
Horizontal Draglines at the Neck 79
Back Neck Gaping 82
Across Shoulder Corrections 85
How To Find the Perfect Across Shoulder Width 86
How To Measure Yourself - Shoulders 87
Shoulders Too Wide 88
Shoulders Too Narrow 92
True the Armhole 96
Across Front & Across Back Corrections 97
Across Front Too Big 98
Across Front Too Small 100
Across Back Too Big 102
Across Back Too Small 104
Across Back and Back Chest Level Too Tight 109
Armhole & Raglan Sleeve Corrections 111
Armhole Position Differences 112
Armhole Gaping 113
Armhole Gaping - Raglan Sleeves 122
Low Armholes 128
High Armholes 133
Set-in Sleeve Topics & Corrections 139
Signs of Nicely-Fitting Sleeves 140
Sleeve Cap Heights Explained 141
Sleeve Cap Height & Width 144
Sleeves Peaking Out or Hiking Up 147
Bicep Too Big on a Sleeve 153
Bicep Too Small on a Sleeve 155
Bust Corrections 157
Bust Adjustments - Checking the Pattern 158
Full Bust Adjustments (FBA) 161
Small Bust Adjustments (SBA) 171
Back Draglines & Hemline Corrections 181
Back Waist Draglines 182
Center Back Hiking Up 188
Skirts, Dresses, & Pants Corrections 195
Hips Too Tight 196
Waist Too Tight 198
Tilting toward the Back or Front 200
Draglines toward the Abdomen or Backside 202
Fitting Pants 205
The Difference between Trousers, Slacks, and Jeans 206
A Balanced Pants Pattern 207
Correcting an Unbalanced Pants Pattern 208
Acceptable Front Wrinkles 211
Eliminating Front Rise Wrinkles 212
Excess at the Front Rise Curve 217
Camel Toe at the Front Rise Curve 219
Acceptable Back Draglines/Creases 221
Those Dreaded Back Draglines on Pants 223
Excessive and Deep Back Crease Lines 227
Gaping at the Back Waist 230
Making a Pocket Opening Bigger 234
Gaping Pocket Openings 235
Calf Adjustment 236
Eliminating the Winged-Leg Look on Shorts 239
Diagonal Draglines Demystified 243
The GRD Method⢠244
Recognizing Diagonal
