In little more than a century, industrial practices have altered every aspect of the cheesemaking process, from the bodies of the animals that provide the milk to the microbial strains that ferment it. Reinventing the Wheel explores what has been lost as raw-milk, single-farm cheeses have given way to the juggernaut of factory production. In the process, distinctiveness and healthy rural landscapes have been exchanged for higher yields and monoculture. However, Bronwen and Francis Percival find reason for optimism. Around the world-not just in France, but also in the United States, England, and Australia-enterprising cheesemakers are exploring the techniques of their great-grandparents. At the same time, using sophisticated molecular methods, scientists are upending conventional wisdom about the role of microbes in every part of the world. Their research reveals the resilience and complexity of the indigenous microbial communities that contribute to the flavor and safety of cheese. One experiment at a time, these dynamic scientists, cheesemakers, and dairy farmers are reinventing the wheel.
Industry Reviews
"Book of the Year 2017" * Wine & Spirits *
"Provides input that is as valuable to a contemporary wine drinker as it may be to anyone interested in delicious cheese, or in personal health." * Wine & Spirits *
"Not since Harold McGee's monumental `On Food and Cooking' (1984) and Sandor Katz's masterly `The Art of Fermentation' (2012) have I enjoyed and learned so much as I did from the Percivals' book."
* The Wall Street Journal *
"This book should convince anyone that the making of wondrous cheeses is a science as well as an art."
* Food Politics *
"Imperative reading for anyone who wants to understand why a small number of cheeses are extraordinary." * The Art of Eating *
"Combines scientific rigor, commercial expertise and passionate connoisseurship." * The Street *
"The book isn't light reading, but if you are interested in artisan vs. commercial cheese production, microbes as fairy godmothers and evil witches, and raw milk vs. pasteurized milk, you'll come away with a much more nuanced approach to all three topics." * Wanderlust and Words *
"Part manifesto, part history and part reference book, this summary of modern cheese-making will appeal equally to microbiologists, cheese aficionados, farmers and cheesemakers." * Microbiology Today *