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Malort : The Redemption of a Revered and Reviled Spirit - Josh Noel

Malort

The Redemption of a Revered and Reviled Spirit

By: Josh Noel

Paperback | 3 September 2024

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"As I am someone who has grown to actually like Malrt, you may doubt my taste. But Josh Noel's exploration of this most maligned spirit is funny, fascinating, and surprisingly delicious." -John Hodgman, comedian and author of Medallion Status

  • A Top 4 Finalist for the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Award for Best New Book on Drinks Culture, History, or Spirits
  • Short-Listed by the Chicago Review of Books for Nonfiction Book of the Year 2025

Malrt may be the worst thing you'll ever taste.
Known primarily for its intense bitterness, the infamous Chicago liqueur has been compared to "a forest fire, if the forest was made of earwax." Yet lurking in the horror and the mockery lies the truth of Malrt: we keep going back for more. For nearly a hundred years, we've gone back.
Jeppson's Malrt could have died a hundred deaths in that time. Its survival wasn't always a given. It also was no accident. There was one man's dogged persistence. One woman's patience and dedication. There were cultural shifts and fortunate timing that helped transform a drink rooted in centuries-old Swedish tradition into the American sensation it is today.
Malrt is a story of love, relationships, and how one generation finds meaning where generations before did not. Such transformations happen in art, in history, and in food, and it happened to Jeppson's Malrt.
Author and beer expert Josh Noel unpacks a uniquely American tale, equal parts culture, business, and personal relationships-involving secret love, federal prison, a David vs. Goliath court battle, and, ultimately, the 2018 sale of Jeppson's Malrt, which made Pat Gabelick, a 75-year-old Chicago woman who spent much of her life as a legal secretary, into an unlikely millionaire.
Malrt isn't just the story of one brazen liquor-it is the story of modern tastes and cultural shifts.

Industry Reviews

"Having tried Mal?rt and having read Josh Noel's book about Mal?rt, I can state with confidence that I prefer the book. This is a wonderful story, told with style, smarts, and good humor. Drink up!" --Jonathan Eig, author of Pulitzer Prize winner King: A Life

"If you're a lover of spirits, Josh Noel's book is an essential read for 2024 as it will lead you to more deeply appreciate the assault on tastebuds that is Jeppson's Mal?rt." -- Drink Hacker


"Mal?rt may seem like a liquor only Chicago could love, but Josh Noel has given us reason to think twice. Mal?rt is a page-turning tale, equal parts cultural history, business case study--and yes, even a love story." --Clay Risen, author of American Whiskey, Bourbon & Rye


"Josh Noel untangles years of bitter and mysterious lore surrounding Chicago's liquid rite of passage, answering so many questions along the way. Barflies, history buffs, and fans of an underdog story will appreciate the strange path this polarizing spirit took to prominence. A book for two-fisted readers!" --Charles Joly, mixologist and bartending entrepreneur
"Josh Noel has taken one of the great punch lines of the liquor industry, the love-it-or-hate-it spirit of all time, and weaved an improbably engrossing tale filled with engaging characters, unpredictable reversals of fortune, stubborn local allegiances, and national movements. If every bottle on the back bar tells a story, Mal?rt's is a picaresque page-turner." --Robert Simonson, author of A Proper Drink

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