| Preface | p. v |
| Preface of Old Edition | p. vii |
| Introduction | p. 1 |
| Three Examples of Japanese Experience of Coastal Environment Change Due to Construction Works | p. 3 |
| Ookozu channel for flood control of the Shinano River | p. 3 |
| Reclamation work in Tokyo Bay | p. 5 |
| Coastal protection works in Suruga Bay | p. 8 |
| General View of River Sediment Supply to Coastal Area over the World | p. 9 |
| Review of Fundamental Fluid Mechanics | p. 13 |
| Brief History of Fluid Mechanic | p. 13 |
| Brief Review of Vector Analysis | p. 14 |
| Introduction of vector and scalar operators | p. 14 |
| The physical meaning of rotation | p. 15 |
| Conservation Laws of Fluid Mechanics | p. 17 |
| Mass conservation | p. 17 |
| Momentum conservation | p. 19 |
| Energy conservation | p. 23 |
| Irrotational Flow of Inviscid Fluid | p. 24 |
| Velocity potential | p. 24 |
| Stream function | p. 25 |
| Complex potential | p. 26 |
| Basic Equations for Wave Motion (Linear Wave Theory) | p. 31 |
| Basic Equations | p. 31 |
| Linear Wave Theory | p. 35 |
| Wave Induced Physical Phenomena | p. 43 |
| Mass Transport Velocity | p. 43 |
| The Bottom Boundary Layer | p. 46 |
| Formulation | p. 46 |
| Solution of the linearized boundary layer equation | p. 48 |
| The bottom shear stress | p. 50 |
| Wave Transformation | p. 53 |
| Wave Shoaling | p. 53 |
| Wave Breaking | p. 55 |
| Wave Reflection and Transmission | p. 58 |
| Wave Refraction | p. 58 |
| Wave Diffraction | p. 62 |
| Mild Slope Equation | p. 64 |
| Wave Field Calculation by Boussinesq Equations | p. 66 |
| Examination of Breaker Height Formula | p. 69 |
| Introduction | p. 69 |
| Existing breaker height formulas | p. 69 |
| Energy Dissipation of Breaking Waves | p. 73 |
| Energy dissipation for regular waves | p. 73 |
| Energy dissipation for irregular waves | p. 75 |
| Surfzone Dynamics | p. 83 |
| General View of Surfzone Dynamics | p. 83 |
| Numerical Model of Surfzone Velocity Field | p. 86 |
| Hydrodynamic model | p. 86 |
| Numerical formulation | p. 88 |
| A Three-Dimensional Large Eddy Simulation | p. 91 |
| Methodology | p. 91 |
| Numerical results | p. 94 |
| Wind Waves | p. 99 |
| Wind Generated Waves | p. 99 |
| Individual wave statistics | p. 100 |
| Energy spectrum | p. 101 |
| Wave Forecasting | p. 104 |
| Wave Induced Currents | p. 109 |
| Currents in Nearshore Field | p. 109 |
| Radiation Stress | p. 110 |
| The concept of radiation stress | p. 110 |
| Wave set-up and set-down | p. 111 |
| Nearshore Current System | p. 114 |
| Longshore current velocity distribution | p. 114 |
| Nearshore circulation | p. 116 |
| Undertow Profile | p. 120 |
| Governing equations | p. 120 |
| Vertical distribution of shear stress and eddy viscosity coefficient | p. 120 |
| Mean velocity | p. 121 |
| Comparison with experiments | p. 122 |
| Wave Forces on Structures | p. 125 |
| Breakwater | p. 125 |
| Forces on Cylinder | p. 127 |
| Breaking Wave Pressure | p. 128 |
| Breaking Impact Pressure on Vertical Breakwater | p. 133 |
| Caisson Displacement | p. 137 |
| Coastal Sediment Transport | p. 143 |
| Sand Transport | p. 143 |
| General description | p. 143 |
| Cross-shore transport formula | p. 147 |
| Longshore transport formula | p. 150 |
| Initiation of sand transport | p. 151 |
| Suspended sediment concentration in and outside the surf zone | p. 152 |
| Modelling of Time-Dependent Sand Transport at the Bottom Boundary Layer | p. 157 |
| The turbulent convection-diffusion equation for the sand concentration field | p. 157 |
| Formulation of boundary conditions | p. 159 |
| Sand concentration within the bottom boundary layer-comparison with laboratory data | p. 161 |
| Mud Transport | p. 164 |
| Mud behavior in coastal area | p. 164 |
| Cross-shore mud transport and beach deformation | p. 167 |
| Beach Erosion and Beach Accretion | p. 177 |
| Cases in Developing Countries | p. 177 |
| General trend-Japan model | p. 177 |
| The case of Thailand | p. 179 |
| The case of Vietnam | p. 179 |
| Discussions | p. 182 |
| Sediment Production in River Basin and River Sediment Transport to Coasts | p. 183 |
| Introduction | p. 184 |
| Methodology | p. 184 |
| River profile change model | p. 187 |
| Sediment transport | p. 190 |
| Sediment evaluation | p. 192 |
| Natural Disasters in Coastal Environment | p. 197 |
| Storm Surge | p. 198 |
| Basic mechanism | p. 198 |
| Numerical simulation | p. 199 |
| Tsunami | p. 200 |
| Case Study, Indian Ocean Tsunami (2004) | p. 202 |
| Surveys in Sri Lanka | p. 202 |
| Surveys in Indonesia | p. 205 |
| Tsunami disaster prevention | p. 205 |
| Subject Index | p. 207 |
| Author Index | p. 213 |
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