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Mechanics Of Coastal Sediment Transport : Advanced Series On Ocean Engineering - Rolf Deigaard

Mechanics Of Coastal Sediment Transport

Advanced Series On Ocean Engineering

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The main objective of the book is to describe from a deterministic point of view the sediment transport in the general wave-current situation. For this purpose, the book is divided into two major parts. The first part of the book is related to flow and turbulence in combined wave-current. This part covers the turbulent wave boundary layer, bed friction in combined wave-current motion, turbulence in the surf zone, and wave-driven currents in the long- and cross-shore direction. The second part treats the sediment transport as a result of the wave-current action. This part includes an introduction to basic sediment transport concepts, distribution of suspended sediment in the sheet flow regime, description of bedforms formed by current and waves, and their influence on sediment transport pattern. Finally, the modelling of cross- and long-shore sediment transport is described. This book is useful for students with a background in basic hydrodynamics.

"... the book presents an integrated and valuable work on the advanced mechanics of coastal hydrodynamics and sediment transport, well worth the attention of graduate students and professionals specializing in the field." Journal of Coastal Research "... the authors have managed to create an informative balance between theory, measurements and numerical modelling ... I fully recommend the book, which is published at a very reasonable price as Volume 3 of the Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering by World Scientific. The book will stand alone but if some readers feel that it needs a mate on the book shelf, the best companion may be Volume 4 in the same series, titled Coastal Bottom Boundary Layers and Sediment Transport by P Nielsen." International Journal of Marine Geology, Geochemistry and Geophysics "The book is very well-written. Basic ideas are outlined in a straightforward manner and more complex topics are dealt with in the form of worked examples. At no point is the mathematics beyond anyone with a first degree in engineering but familiarity with basic hydraulics and wave mechanics would be an advantage. Both authors have in the past made many major contributions to this field and it is, consequently, hardly surprising that there is a strong emphasis on North-European research literature." J. Fluid Mech. "... this is a very interesting text that will assist a number of young scientists dealing with sediment transport ... The material is explained quite clearly and the approach is quite analytical, making this text most valubale to coastal engineers and scientists ... This book is perfectly suited to all graduate students and scientists interested in coastal engineering. It is the kind of digest that will bring readers back to the book long after graduation." Journal of Hydraulic Engineering

List of Symbols
Basic concepts of potential wave theory
Waves propagating over a horizontal bottomp. 1
Wave energyp. 9
Radiation stressesp. 11
Irregular wavesp. 13
Wave boundary layers
The momentum integral method for the turbulent wave boundary layerp. 20
Detailed modelling of the wave boundary layerp. 34
Streamingp. 44
Energy dissipation in the wave boundary layerp. 49
Bed friction and turbulence in wave-current motion
Simple considerations on changes in the shape of the velocity profile and increase in bed shear stressp. 56
The integrated momentum method applied to combined wave-current motionp. 66
Refined modelling of the wave-current motionp. 77
Waves in the surf zone
Wave-breakingp. 83
Modelling of variation of wave height and water level in the surf zonep. 89
Turbulence in the surf zonep. 112
Wave-driven currents
The longshore currentp. 129
Further developments of longshore current modelsp. 137
Wave-driven currents on a non-uniform beach profilep. 149
Low frequency oscillationsp. 161
Current velocity distribution in the surf zone
Normally incident waves, shear stress distributionp. 171
Normally incident waves, the undertowp. 178
Basic concepts of sediment transport
Transport modesp. 194
Sediment propertiesp. 195
Critical bed shear stressp. 201
Bed load transportationp. 206
Vertical distribution of suspended sediment in waves and current over a plan bed
Vertical distribution of suspended sediment in a steady currentp. 227
Distribution of suspended sediment in pure oscillatory flowp. 238
Vertical distribution of suspended sediment in combined wave-current motionp. 250
Vertical distribution of suspended sediment under broken wavesp. 255
Current-generated bed waves
Bed waves in current alonep. 260
Mechanics of dunes in a steady currentp. 265
Influence of waves on current-generated sand wavesp. 275
Flow resistance due to bed waves in a currentp. 280
Wave-generated bed form
A simple model for vortex ripplesp. 293
Distribution of suspended sediment over vortex ripplesp. 304
Cross-shore sediment transport and coastal profile development
Cross-shore sediment transportp. 310
Development of coastal profilep. 318
Longshore sediment transport and coastline development
Longshore sediment transportp. 325
Modelling of coastline developmentp. 341
Appendix I. Wave table: Sinusoidal wavesp. 350
Appendix II. Derivation of the k-equationp. 352
Appendix III. Additional referencesp. 357
Subject Indexp. 367
Table of Contents provided by Blackwell. All Rights Reserved.

ISBN: 9789810208417
ISBN-10: 9810208413
Series: Advanced Series On Ocean Engineering
Audience: Professional
Format: Paperback
Language: English
Number Of Pages: 392
Published: 1st November 1992
Country of Publication: SG
Dimensions (cm): 22.86 x 15.88  x 2.54
Weight (kg): 0.54