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Glacier and Crevasse Rescue : Mountaineers Outdoor Expert - Andy Selters

Glacier and Crevasse Rescue

Mountaineers Outdoor Expert

Paperback

Published: 1st October 1999
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Published: 30th November 1999
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* Technical advice for traveling safely on glaciers and how to perform a rescue should the worst happen * Sidebars provide extra lessons on techniques presented * Large format with photographs showing the techniques discussed Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue is a comprehensive course in understanding glaciers, crossing them, avoiding crevasses, and rescuing crevasse victims. Topics covered include: how glaciers form and how crevasses develop; basic principles of glacier travel; route finding; knots and harnesses; holding a fall; rescue techniques, including self-belay and what a victim should do; and glacier skiing and sled hauling. Sidebars feature descriptions of accidents and near-accidents to emphasize the importance of the techniques presented.

Acknowledgmentsp. 7
Introductionp. 9
Understanding the Crevasse Hazardp. 15
Glacier and Crevasse Genesisp. 15
Snowbridgesp. 22
Glacier Seasons in Various Climatesp. 26
Health of Glaciersp. 31
Principles and Procedures of Glacier Travelp. 35
Arranging Members: How Far Apart?p. 36
Knots and Harnessesp. 40
Clothingp. 44
Rescue Gearp. 44
Routefindingp. 45
The Rope Leaderp. 47
Team Travelp. 49
Whiteoutsp. 53
Holding Falls: The Glacier Traveler's Belaysp. 55
Ice Slopesp. 59
Avalanchesp. 60
Serac Fallp. 61
Gathering Togetherp. 63
Travel on a "Dry" Ablation Zonep. 63
Camping Considerationsp. 64
Rescue Techniques for the Glacier Travelerp. 67
Ascending Systemsp. 67
Prusik or Ascender as Self-Belayp. 72
Victim Proceduresp. 72
Surface Member Proceduresp. 73
Crevasse Rescue Proceduresp. 87
Additional Rescue Techniquesp. 103
Additional Hauling Power: The ZxCp. 103
The Canadian Drop Loop Systemp. 104
The Windlass 4:1 or 8:1p. 106
Building in a Tension-Release Mechanismp. 106
Rescuing Over a Newly Prepared Lipp. 109
Two-Person Partiesp. 110
Rappelling to Aid a Victimp. 116
Skiing and Hauling Sledsp. 125
Glacier Skiingp. 125
Hauling Sledsp. 126
Afterword: The Game of Crevasse Roulettep. 133
Rescue Practice Sessionsp. 136
Some Useful Improvisationsp. 139
Indexp. 142
Table of Contents provided by Blackwell. All Rights Reserved.

ISBN: 9780898866582
ISBN-10: 0898866588
Series: Mountaineers Outdoor Expert
Audience: General
Format: Paperback
Language: English
Number Of Pages: 144
Published: 1st October 1999
Publisher: Mountaineers Books
Country of Publication: US
Dimensions (cm): 22.86 x 18.42  x 1.27
Weight (kg): 0.3
Edition Number: 2