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Fashion Zeitgeist : Trends and Cycles in - Barbara Vinken

Fashion Zeitgeist

Trends and Cycles in

Paperback Published: 1st November 2004
ISBN: 9781845200442
Number Of Pages: 170

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Although it is appealing to think that fashion has taken a sharp turn away from conventions established in the industry over the past century and more, is this really the case? Or are 'pioneering' designs simply part of a cyclical revival of forgotten fashions? Looking at some of the most influential designers of the twentieth century, Vinken considers the politics and philosophies that have been the driving forces directing their sense of style.Vinken describes 'Fashion Zeitgeist' as a trend characterized by representations of traces of the past. She considers the key concepts behind designers such as Yamamoto, Gaultier, and Lagerfeld. The originality of Yamamoto's multi-layered look stems from his philosophy that it is the individual sum of experience that is important, not the collective consequences of history. Martin Margiela, although he himself refuses to be photographed or appear in the public eye, brings new individuality into fashion. Chanel, under the direction of Karl Lagerfeld, is viewed as the only fashion house to have remained fresh after 100 years, yet is this success essentially proof of the self-referential qualities fashion has adopted? What inspired the fetish for labels at the end of the twentieth century? Answering these questions and many more, this concise and thought-provoking book shows how beauty, gender, sexuality, commerce and dandyism have persisted in defining the fashion system.

"Fashion Zeitgeist does not make the auteur and createur the subject of discussion anymore, but rather the conditions of fashion themselves...Vinken is theoretical but also entertaining and informative. She shows how individual designers reject fashion dictates and make fashion a subject of discussion by examining it against the standards of haute couture." --Die Tageszeitung

"The spectrum of international top designers whose creations reflect the Zeitgeist is shown in 13 brilliant and amusing detailed analyses." --Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung

Postfashion
What Fashion Strictly Divided
Adorned in Zeitgeist
High and Low: the End of a Century of Fashion
Eight Types of Fashion
Lagerfeld for Chanel: The Griffe
Montana, Mugler: Myth
Dolce and Gabbana: Deep South
Commes des Garcons: Ex Oriente Lux
Yohji Yamamoto: The Secret Sewn in
Gaultier: Revaluation of All Values
Helmut Lang: Fabric, Skin and Figure
Martin Margiela: Signs of the Time
Table of Contents provided by Publisher. All Rights Reserved.

ISBN: 9781845200442
ISBN-10: 1845200446
Audience: BAC
Format: Paperback
Language: English
Number Of Pages: 170
Published: 1st November 2004
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Country of Publication: GB
Dimensions (cm): 24.5 x 17.2  x 0.8
Weight (kg): 0.36
Edition Number: 1