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Fashion Zeitgeist : Trends and Cycles in - Barbara Vinken

Fashion Zeitgeist

Trends and Cycles in

Hardcover Published: 1st November 2004
ISBN: 9781845200435
Number Of Pages: 170

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Although it is appealing to think that fashion has taken a sharp turn away from conventions established in the industry over the past century and more, is this really the case? Or are 'pioneering' designs simply part of a cyclical revival of forgotten fashions? Looking at some of the most influential designers of the twentieth century, Vinken considers the politics and philosophies that have been the driving forces directing their sense of style.Vinken describes 'Fashion Zeitgeist' as a trend characterized by representations of traces of the past. She considers the key concepts behind designers such as Yamamoto, Gaultier, and Lagerfeld. The originality of Yamamoto's multi-layered look stems from his philosophy that it is the individual sum of experience that is important, not the collective consequences of history. Martin Margiela, although he himself refuses to be photographed or appear in the public eye, brings new individuality into fashion. Chanel, under the direction of Karl Lagerfeld, is viewed as the only fashion house to have remained fresh after 100 years, yet is this success essentially proof of the self-referential qualities fashion has adopted? What inspired the fetish for labels at the end of the twentieth century? Answering these questions and many more, this concise and thought-provoking book shows how beauty, gender, sexuality, commerce and dandyism have persisted in defining the fashion system.

'The intellectual reach of Fashion Zeitgeist is thrilling. Unconstrained by the empiricist concerns of much Anglo-American scholarship on dress, Vinken presents a challenging new poetics of clothing which will inform subsequent readings of style in significant ways. Its translation into English should be applauded.' Christopher Breward, Victoria Albert Museum 'Barbara Vinken brilliantly combines elegance and erudition to produce a subtle and thought-provoking analysis of contemporary dress and its interaction with the past. This is essential reading not only for students of dress history, but also for all fashionistas and anyone interested in the abiding fascination that fashion exerts.' Elizabeth Wilson, author of 'Adorned in Dreams 'Barbara Vinken is a sophisticated hostess to the 21st century world of what she calls post-fashion, a dream world whose carnivalesque rhetorics of irony, quotation, of clothes turned upside down and inside out, evokes the utopia of an everyday Halloween, a world of adult's transitional objects for today's and tomorrow's transitory subjects.' Denis Hollier, New York University 'Vinken is theoretical but also entertaining and informative. She shows how individual designers reject fashion dictates and make fashion a subject of discussion by examining it against the standards of haute couture.' Die Tageszeitung 'The spectrum of international top designers whose creations reflect the Zeitgeist is shown in 13 brilliant and amusing detailed analyses.' Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung 'No longer a reliable sign of either sexual or social order, fashion becomes in Vinken's hands a manipulating, subverting, revealing art that exposes our most cherished lies about ourselves. The once simple act of getting dressed will never be the same again.' Ramie Targoff, Associate Professor of English, Brandeis University

What Fashion Strictly Divided
Adorned in Zeitgeist
High and Low: the End of a Century of Fashion
Eight Types of Fashion
Lagerfeld for Chanel: The Griffe
Montana, Mugler: Myth
Dolce and Gabbana: Deep South
Commes des Garcons: Ex Oriente Lux
Yohji Yamamoto: The Secret Sewn in
Gaultier: Revaluation of All Values
Helmut Lang: Fabric, Skin and Figure
Martin Margiela: Signs of the Time
Table of Contents provided by Publisher. All Rights Reserved.

ISBN: 9781845200435
ISBN-10: 1845200438
Audience: BAC
Format: Hardcover
Language: English
Number Of Pages: 170
Published: 1st November 2004
Publisher: BERG PUBL INC
Country of Publication: GB
Dimensions (cm): 24.4 x 17.2  x 1.35
Weight (kg): 0.49
Edition Number: 1