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Culture of sewing : Gender cons (Dre - Barbara Burman

Culture of sewing

Gender cons (Dre

Paperback Published: 1st November 1999
ISBN: 9781859732083
Number Of Pages: 368

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Throughout its long history, home dressmaking has been a formative experience in the lives of millions of women. In an age of relative affluence and mass production, it is easy to forget that just over a generation ago, young girls from middle- and working-class backgrounds were routinely taught to sew as a practical necessity. However, not only have the skills involved in home dressmaking been overlooked and marginalized due to their association with women and the home, but the impact home dressmaking had on women's lives and broader socioeconomic structures also has been largely ignored.

This book is the first serious account of the significance of home dressmaking as a form of European and American material culture. Exploring themes from the last two hundred years to the present, including gender, technology, consumption and visual representation, contributors show how home dressmakers negotiated and experienced developments to meet a wide variety of needs and aspirations. Not merely passive consumers, home dressmakers have been active producers within family economies. They have been individuals with complex agendas expressed through their roles as wives, mothers and workers in their own right and shaped by ideologies of femininity and class.

This book represents a vital contribution to women's studies, the history of fashion and dress, design history, material culture, sociology and anthropology.

Industry Reviews

'Sewing,as a fixture of production, consumption, femininity, gentility, home, and work, deserves the serious attention of historians and theoreticians ... the most interesting essays reveal how ... women actually served to integrate the home into commercial life ... This series(dress,body culture) attempts to move specialists out of their professional ghetto while infusing such theoretically "hot"subjects such as dress and bodies with some real material content.Both are welcome goals'. Business History Review 'A collection of well researched essays ... An interesting book to dip into as each essay is complete in itself. A student of dress would find it useful as it has personal accounts that you wouldn't find anywhere else.' Costume 'This seminal publication contributes to Berg's recent prolific impact on the field of costume studies, and this book will not disappoint those searching for the latest serious academic inquiry into new areas in the field of dress ... The editor's incisive synthesis of the issues underpinning this field of study, as well as those brought out by the authors of the various papers, provides a strong contextual framework for any further work that may be undertaken on this topic ... The extent of the complementary coverage of this topic from different standpoints adds to the strength of this publication.' Dress 'The Culture of Sewing aptly demonstrates the relevance of home sewing to our collective scholarly lives. Focusing on nineteenth-and twentieth-century Britain and America, it also shows that home sewing has a history far more specific and varied than my adolescent shortsightedness. ... I am not yet ready to take up home sewing. However, I urge readers to take up the best essays in this book. Together they urge us to re-assess relationships between paid and unpaid labor, work and leisure, and perhaps most important, the economy and everyday life.' Enterprise and Society

Acknowledgementsp. xi
Notes on Contributorsp. xiii
Introductionp. 1
Notep. 16
Referencesp. 16
Home Dressmaking, Class and Identityp. 19
Patterns of Respectability: Publishing, Home Sewing and the Dynamics of Class and Gender 1870-1914p. 21
Notesp. 30
Referencesp. 31
Made at Home by Clever Fingers: Home Dressmaking in Edwardian Englandp. 33
Notesp. 50
Referencesp. 51
On the Margins: Theorizing the History and Significance of Making and Designing Clothes at Homep. 55
Notesp. 68
Referencesp. 70
Making Modern Worm, Stitch by Stitch: Dressmaking and Women's Magazine in Britain 1919-39p. 73
Notesp. 90
Referencesp. 93
Home Sewing: Motivational Changes in the Twentieth Centuryp. 97
Referencesp. 107
There's No Place like Home: Home Dressmaking and Creativity in the Jamaican Community of the 1940s to the 1960sp. 111
Notesp. 122
Referencesp. 124
Home Dressmaking and Consumptionp. 127
Wearily Moving Her Needle: Army Officers' Wives and Sewing in the Nineteenth Century American Westp. 129
Referencesp. 138
Commodified Craft, Creative Community: Women's Vernacular Dress in Nineteenth-Century Philadelphiap. 141
Notesp. 154
Referencesp. 155
Creating Consumers: Gender, Class and the Family Sewing Machinep. 157
Referencesp. 166
Patterns of Choice: Women's and Children's Clothing in the Wallis Archive, York Castle Museump. 169
Referencesp. 191
The Sewing Needle as Magic Wand: Selling Sewing Lessons to American Girls after the Second World Warp. 193
Referencesp. 204
Virtul Home Dressmaking Dressmakers and Seamstressess in Post- War Torontop. 207
Referencesp. 218
Home Dressmaking Dissemination and Technologyp. 221
'the Lady's Economical Assistant' of 1808p. 223
Notesp. 231
Referencesp. 234
Dreams on Paper: a Story of the Commericial Pattern Industeryp. 235
Notesp. 251
Referencesp. 252
Homeworking and the Sewing Machine in the British Clothing Industery 1850-1905p. 255
Notesp. 265
Referencesp. 267
The Sewing Machine Comes Homep. 269
Notesp. 282
Referencesp. 282
A Beautiful Ornament in the Parlour or Boudoir: the Domestication of the Sewing Machinep. 285
Notesp. 298
Referencesp. 300
Home Economics and Home Swing in the United States 187o-1940p. 303
Notesp. 320
Referencesp. 323
'your Clothes Are Materials of War': the British Government Promotion of Home Sawing during the Second World Warp. 327
Notesp. 337
Referencesp. 338
Indexp. 341
Table of Contents provided by Publisher. All Rights Reserved.

ISBN: 9781859732083
ISBN-10: 1859732089
Series: Dress, Body, Culture (Paperback)
Audience: BAC
Format: Paperback
Language: English
Number Of Pages: 368
Published: 1st November 1999
Publisher: BERG PUBL INC
Country of Publication: GB
Dimensions (cm): 23.4 x 15.6  x 1.85
Weight (kg): 0.49
Edition Number: 1