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Turning the Tables : Restaurants and the Rise of the American Middle Class, 1880-1920 - Andrew P. Haley

Turning the Tables

Restaurants and the Rise of the American Middle Class, 1880-1920

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In the nineteenth century, restaurants served French food to upper-class Americans with aristocratic pretensions, but by the twentieth century, even the best restaurants dished up ethnic and American foods to middle-class urbanites spending a night on the town. In Turning the Tables, Andrew Haley examines the transformation of American public dining at the start of the twentieth century and argues that the birth of the modern American restaurant helped establish the middle class as the arbiter of American culture.

Early twentieth-century battles over French-language menus, scientific eating, ethnic restaurants, unescorted women, tipping, and servantless restaurants pitted the middle class against the elite. United by their shared preferences for simpler meals and English-language menus, middle-class diners defied established conventions and successfully pressured restaurateurs to embrace cosmopolitan ideas of dining that reflected the preferences and desires of middle-class patrons.
Drawing on culinary magazines, menus, restaurant journals, and newspaper accounts, including many that have never before been examined by historians, Haley traces material changes to restaurants at the turn of the century that demonstrate that the clash between the upper class and the middle class over American consumer culture shaped the "tang and feel" of life in the twentieth century.

"A sumptuous dish for anyone interested in middle-class culture of the Gilded Age and Progressive Era, as well as an important contribution to the growing historiography around restaurant and food history."--"Journal of the Gilded Age and Progressive Er

Acknowledgmentsp. ix
Note on Languagep. xiii
Introduction: The Tang and Feel of the American Experience
Class, Culture, and Consumptionp. 1
Terrapin à la Maryland
The Era of the Aristocratic Restaurantp. 19
Playing at Make Believe
The Failure of Imitationp. 43
Catering to the Great Middle Stripe
Beefsteaks and American Restaurantsp. 68
The Restauration
Colonizing the Ethnic Restaurantp. 92
The Simplified Menu
The Case against Gastronomic Ostentationp. 118
Satisfying Their Hunger
Middle-Class Women and Respectabilityp. 145
The Tipping Evil
The Limits of Middle-Class Influencep. 171
Ending Linguistic Disguises
The Decline of French Cuisinep. 192
Conclusion: Indifferent Gullets
The Middle Class and the Cosmopolitan Restaurantp. 222
Notesp. 237
Bibliographyp. 327
Indexp. 353
Table of Contents provided by Ingram. All Rights Reserved.

ISBN: 9780807834749
ISBN-10: 9781909728035
Audience: Professional
Format: Hardcover
Language: English
Number Of Pages: 384
Published: 30th May 2011
Publisher: The University of North Carolina Press
Dimensions (cm): 22.9 x 15.2  x 2.9
Weight (kg): 0.67